Zermatt: The Ultimate Swiss Experience

Imagine Switzerland in January…

Montreux—the jewel of the Swiss Riviera, where I was staying in the Vaud—was enjoying a very civilized winter: just a mild dusting of powder snow to excite the senses. But I was seriously craving snow. You know the kind: the deep soft stuff that an adventurous stuffed cat could get joyfully lost in.

So, in search of serious snow, breathtaking scenery and a resort atmosphere, I packed up and headed southeast to the alpine village of Zermatt in the Valais. This resort town nestles in the shadow of the majestic Matterhorn in some of the most stunning scenery on this planet and my stuffings were itching to taste its bounty. Probably best known as a centre for skiing and mountaineering, Zermatt’s surroundings are truly breathtaking any season. But the high season—as in scintillating “get a high”—is winter. And I was right in the middle of it. This comes at a price; accommodation in Zermatt is among the most expensive in Switzerland.

View of the Matterhorn from Zermatt

But, if you’re a cool cat like me, there are ways … and there are lots of options. All the inns, hotels and guesthouses in Zermatt are locally owned: these range from cozy guesthouses and hostels to large full service hotels with five star ratings. All, of course, feature the signature Swiss hospitality and excellent service known worldwide.

Depending on your budget, you can visit Zermatt in true style and stay in one of the five-star hotels and get picked up at the train station by a horse and carriage. Some of Zermatt’s luxury hotels include Mont Cervin, Monte Rosa, Hotel Schweizerhof, and Hotel Nicoletta (now Le Petit Cervin), all located near the village center and on or near Bahnhofstrasse, the main street. The Monte Rosa is considered the “grande dame” of Zermatt hotels and is where Edward Whymper stayed when he became the first person to climb the Matterhorn.

You can rent a suite in one of the chalet-style condos, like I did, and be greeted by a friendly local who will not only show you to your cozy avant-garde suite but give you the low-down on the cool things that locals do in Zermatt. If you don’t mind something a little less posh, you can get very reasonable hostel accommodation right in the heart of Zermatt and on the surrounding foothills through Hostel Europe.

Ski hut on the Matterhorn

If you’re a skier or mountaineer, you can also rent a “hut” on the outskirts of town or up the hill toward the Matterhorn. There’s nothing quite like skiing into and out of your place. The Riffelalp is a luxury alpine hotel up the mountain from Zermatt that you can get to via the Gornergrat Railway cog rail. The Kulm and the Romantica are two other chalet-style mountain hotels accessible by cog-wheel railway from Zermatt. Overlooking the Gornergletscher on the Gornergrat, with its two domed towers—one is a working observatory—the Kulm provides a distinctive “summit experience” at 3100 m.

The Trip to Zermatt

Zermatt in the evening

It was a three-hour drive from Montreux along excellent freeways and snow-lined mountain roads. Looking for adventure, I drove my ToulouseMobile past the wine-growing towns of Martigny, Sion and Sierre to Visp, where I turned onto a narrow road that wound its ascent out of the Zermatt/Visp Valley past mountain villages and eventually to Täsche, where I parked my mobile. A major snow dump had just occurred here and I’d been informed that Zermatt might be closed. Fortunately for me, the train up to Zermatt—a car-free village—had just begun again. And I was about to head into a paradise of freshly fallen snow!

Ski run at the foot of the Matterhorn

Zermatt nestles in the foothills of the Matterhorn and surrounding mountain range, among which are the highest of Switzerland (Monte Rosa at 4634 m). To visit or stay in this Matterhorn village, you need to take a train from Brig, Visp, or Täsche. The 7-km shuttle train ride of the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway runs every 20 minutes from Täsche to Zermatt. I parked the ToulouseMobile in the Matterhorn Terminal Täsche, and enjoyed a relaxing 12 minute ride on the shuttle train to the Bahnhofplatz in the heart of Zermatt.

    

Living, Playing & Eating in Zermatt

Alps near the Matterhorn

From the train station it’s at most a twenty minute walk along the snow-packed Bahnhofstrasse, the main pedestrian street that runs the length of the resort town along the banks of the Vispa River, to any accommodation in the town. 

Lined with festive shops, restaurants and cafés, I strolled Bahnhofstrasse, experiencing the best of Switzerland. I checked out the classy souvenir shops (there is hardly anything “tacky” in Switzerland—even its souvenirs), featuring Swiss Army knives, watches, and clothes (I purchased a pair of Swiss cow socks for a friend); gourmet chocolatiers like Laderach and Fuchs; patisseries; shops selling fashionable outerwear, sweaters and ski apparel; and others selling top quality ski and boarding equipment; and, of course, bistros and cafés featuring savory Swiss food from fresh oysters, chocolate fondants, mushroom and ham crepes or exquisite open-face sandwiches and hearty soups to the best filet mignon or truffle ravioli. 

The family run Le Mazot is one of Zermatt’s less expensive and most welcoming small eateries. Located in the village centre near the river, it specializes in lamb fed on pastures under the Matterhorn and grilled on an open wood fire.

Toulouse in Heaven: Petit Royal

My favorite lunch places included the Hörnli Bäckerei-Konditorei and the newly established Le Pont Royal across the street. I just had to return to the Hörnli several times to sample their savory crepes and excellent café crèmes. Es war ausgezeichnet! Wunderbar!

They also feature excellent desserts but the attractive window display of Le Pont Royal drew me in and next thing I knew I was savoring an exquisite marzipan genache almond torte with vanilla custard. Topped off with a gourmet hot chocolate, it made paradise into heaven.

During high season (in winter), Zermatt welcomes nearly 20,000 visitors who live and play amid its 5 or 6 pedestrian streets and lanes and, of course, its spectacular mountains. There are virtually no internal combustion vehicles except the occasional outside delivery and specialist services (most service vehicles run on batteries). This helps against air and noise pollution.

Le Petit Royal Confiserie in Zermatt

As I wandered down Bahnhofstrasse, poking into narrow Medieval-like alleyways that led to adventure, I pondered how I could find myself in utter tranquility within a few steps from the main street bustle. You can sit on a hotel balcony and listen to the songbirds as you watch the sun set on one of the most striking mountains in the western world. 

In Zermatt you can wake up in a four or five-star room or a canvas tent to the sound of birds, church bells, and children's laughter. The name "Zermatt" does, after all mean “to the meadow”; it’s a contraction of the local dialect words "zer", which means "to", and "matta", which means "field" or "meadow".

During the summer, roads and hiking trails take you up to a number of year-round restaurants. In the winter you can ski to them and enjoy a Swiss beer and raclette or roesti. I stopped in several of them on my cable car tour up to the Matterhorn via Furi, Schwartzee and Trockener Steg.  

Intrepid off-piste skiers shared my car into snow heaven then bid me adieu to negotiate the steep back-country slopes of deep powder in search of untracked snow. On my way down just past Furi, I was alerted by the huge litter of skis laid out like match sticks in the snow: a lively après ski crowd was partying at Zum See, celebrating a good day of powder hounding.

The Majesty of the Matterhorn

The ultimate Matterhorn

Straddling the Swiss and Italian border, the Matterhorn attains a height of 4,478 m. Though not Switzerland’s highest mountain (it’s actually Monte Rosa in the same range), its splendid pyramid-shape has earned the Matterhorn a place as one of Switzerland’s most enduring symbols. It was one of the last alpine mountains to be climbed to the top, by British explorers in 1865. That first expedition unfortunately ended with tragedy; only 3 of the 7 climbers survived the descent. They are buried in Zermatt along with others who lost their lives climbing the challenging mountain.

Anyway you look at it, the Matterhorn's majesty is worth beholding any season and any time, from bright sun to the shrouding mists of sunset. The best views can be found in the cozy posh resort town of Zermatt.

Sunset over the Matterhorn 

I'll be back ... with my skis! I'm the COOL Travel Cat, after all!

Montreux and Chateau Chillon et La Chasse aux Sorcières

Montreux

My travels through Western Switzerland naturally took me through vineyard country and the breathtaking shores of Lake Geneva. And finally to the resort town of Montreux.

Attractions in Montreux

Surrounded by undulating vineyards, Montreux is an unpretentious though charming upmarket resort town gracing the shores of Lake Geneva. Often described as the jewel of the Swiss Riviera, Montreux comes alive in a big way every July for its annual jazz/rock festival. This is the best-known music festival in Switzerland and one of the most prestigious in Europe, being the second largest annual music festival in the world (after Canada’s Montreal International Jazz Festival). The festival has attracted names like Marianne Faithfull, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, Frank Zappa, Deep Purple, Prince, Eric Clapton, Ray Charles, B.B. King, Santana, and Van Morrison. Freddy Mercury of Queen made Montreux his second home. Deep Purple’s song “Smoke on the Water” tells of the events of 1971, when a Frank Zappa fan with a flare gun set the Montreux Casino on fire and destroyed it. The Casino was reopened in 1975.

Long before it became known for its international music festival, Montreux had already become an international tourist resort since the early 1800s. This charming lake-shore town with its stylish Belle Epoche hotels and cobble windy streets captivated artists, writes and musicians over the years. Some that bear mentioning include Lord Byron, Mary Shelley, Leo Tolstoy, Ernest Hemingway, Victor Hugo and Hans Christian Anderson. The Empress Elisabeth “Sissi” of Austria also enjoyed strolling the streets of Montreux.

The most famous of the Belle Epoche hotels is probably the Montreux Palace on Grand Rue. The Centre des Congrès across the street houses a concert hall dedicated to Igor Stravinsky who composed his Rite of Spring in Montreux.

Bed & Breakfast Accommodation in Montreux

Castel les Chenes

I decided against the mad bustle of downtown and opted for a different experience. I chose a charming bed and breakfast in the residential quarter of Montreux (Territet) at the foot of Mont Fleuri and above the bay of Territet. Originally built for a French countess in 1928, Castel les Chênes became the home of Hermann & Ulla Schusterbauer, who used it as a language school (it still functions as one) and currently operate it as a bed and breakfast. Set in the midst of a beautiful terraced garden, the charming castle perches over a steep cobblestone road that winds its way above the town. Castel les Chênes enjoys a splendid 180 ° view that spans the Alps of Valais and Vaud, Lake Geneva, Chillon Castle, Montreux, Haute Savoie (in nearby France) and the Jura. This bed and breakfast is barely a 10-minute walk from the Lake, Territet station, the bus service to Montreux and the funicular railway to Glion.

Rooms vary from the stylish chambers on the ground floor to the cosy beamed rooms on the top floor. Each bedroom (1 to 3 single beds) has its own wash-basin and most, like mine, have a balcony with a panoramic view. Communal shower and toilet facilities are available on each floor.

After a warm bath and one of Ulla’s signature hot chocolates, I was ready for adventure. The Chateau de Chillon—possibly the most visited castle in Switzerland—lay just southeast of Montreux in the charming town of Veytaux. I could see it from my balcony on the second floor. I fetched my hat and scarf and was scampering out the door.

Chateau de Chillon

Chateau de Chillon

Easily one of Switzerland’s most majestic medieval castles, Chateau de Chillon is set on a rocky spur on the eastern shore of Lake Geneva. The castle ramparts command a marvelous view of the entire lake. Although it originated around the 11^th century, its present structure reflects its 13^th century renovations. Chillon was built for the Dukes of Savoy, who once ruled this region. The duke built a number of castles to guard the verdant valleys from the Bernese to the north.

I overheard one tourist attest that the castle was, “romantic, beautiful, fascinating and with the most impressive and scary outside toilet I have ever seen, 50 meters free fall and with strong ventilation.” Hmmm… There are many paths to exhilaration, I suppose.

Inner courtyard of Chateau de Chillon

While it was the centre of court life for the dukes of Savoy, the castle also served as a prison. Its most famous captive was Francois de Bonivard, imprisoned there for six years in the 1530s for political incitement. Lord Byron immortalized him in a poem called “The Prisoner of Chillon”. Francois Bonivard was imprisoned in the underground cellar, previously used as a storeroom for supplies and weapons. Bonivard was held captive there for over xx years before he was liberated by the Bernese.

La Chasse aux Sorcières

dungeons of Chillon

Chateau de Chillon was also the epicenter for witch hunts during the 1400s through to 1500s and many “witches” were kept there. I toured the castle during a witch-hunt exhibit and learned that the Pays de Vaud was the site of major witch-hunts between the 15th and the 17th centuries. During that time, more than 2,000 “witches” were burned there. On an aside, did you know that Switzerland holds not only the record for the longest-lasting repression of witchcraft but also for the largest number of people persecuted as witches, in relation to the population.
Chillon Castle became an important detention centre for individuals suspected of witchcraft, either awaiting trial or execution.

Gölden Anna was the last person in Europe to be condemned as a witch. She was executed in 1782 in the Protestant canton of Glarus, Switzerland.

Outer rampart of Chillon

Nina Munteanu explores the “witch-hunt” in her historical fantasy “The Last Summoner” (Starfire), which takes place in Poland and France. The main character, a young baroness living in 1410, discovers she has strange powers and is hunted as a witch.

The Charm of Villeneuve

Feeling rather peckish after scampering all over the castle grounds and dark dungeons, I leapt into my ToulouseMobile and drove in search of a place to eat. Within five minutes I found myself driving along one of old Villeneuve’s narrow cobbled lanes and spotted an attractive looking restaurant crowded with patrons—always a good sign.

The Bienveillance, avec Specialities Chinoises, is a gem inside this quiet old town. I walked into a rather exotic setting of high ceilings, old lamps, jade dragons and palm trees.

I started out with hot and sour soup, which was a perfect blend of hot and sour soup and full of goodness like seaweed, tofu and other vegetables. It was a hard choice between the canard aux germes de soja and the chicken with red curry. The curry won; and so did I. I ended my delicious meal with a wonderful signature Swiss café crème. Magnifique!  

Montreux and its nearby villages is its own destination; but it also provides a strategic centre for adventurous forays to other places in Western Switzerland like Geneva, Lausanne, Neuchatel, le Molésons, Gruyères, Aigle, Sion, les Diablerets, Glacier 3000, Mont Blanc, and Zermatt.

Contact Information:

B & B: Résidence Castel Les Chênes 
Hermann & Ulla Schusterbauer 
Avenue de Naye 15 
CH 1820 Montreux-Territet; tel: +41 (0)21 963 0880; fax: +41 (0)21 963 7334; email: residence@castelchenes.com; website: www.Castelchenes.com.

Swiss Cows are a Cat’s Best Friend

Swiss cows in Arth Switzerland

Think of it: milk, cheese, chocolate, butter, cream…café crème! I was in Toulouse heaven when I toured Zurich and the countryside of Central Switzerland this spring. As the Swiss would say, es war ausgezeichnet! I feasted on the best that cows can offer. That had a lot to do with the Brown Swiss cow. And here’s why…

Brown Swiss is the breed of dairy cattle that produces the second largest quantity of milk in the world. The milk contains on average 4% butterfat and 3.5% protein, which makes it ideal for cheese production. The Brown Swiss is a large cow with long gestation, large furry ears, and a lovely docile temperament. They are also hardy and need little care or feed.

Known as Braunvieh in German, the Brown Swiss originated on the slopes of the Swiss Alps, which made them resistant to heat, cold and many other common cattle problems. The Brown Swiss, as we know it in the United States today, originated in several cantons I traveled through: Schwyz, Zug, St. Gallen, Glarus, Lucerne, and Zurich of Switzerland. Here’s what the Brown Swiss cow offers so happily and impeccably:

Swiss cows in Seelisberg, Lake Lucerne

BUTTER: In Switzerland, butter is more of an experience than a condiment. Its fresh and bold taste carries with it the fresh smell of alpine meadows. Swiss butter makes one incredible escargots bourguignon baked with Café de Paris sauce like the six I “inhaled” at the Swiss Chalet in Merlischachen. Swiss butter melts in your mouth with a delicate nuance of the Swiss countryside. It is tasty plain on bread, croissants or butterzopf in the morning for breakfast. As I scarfed down the tenth piece of light rye with herb-tomato butter at the Rossli in Schonenburg, I pulled contemplatively at my whiskers and decided that its exquisite taste is “because the cows are happy”.  Most Swiss cows graze freely outside in small family farms, benefitting from the fresh air, good food and pleasant pastoral setting. The Swiss are very proud of their cows, after all. Spring festivals abound around the Swiss cow, complete with regalia and huge intricately decorated bells.

curious Swiss cow

CHEESE: Cheese permeates and forms an integral part of Swiss life. As with my compatriots in France, the Swiss consider it both an everyday food item and something ideal for a feast. The Swiss will commonly serve a platter of six or seven different kinds of cheese, along with fresh bread, dried meat or cervelat, and fruit, along with a generous amount of good red wine.  I partook of many cheese platter picnics, accompanied with wine, and cervelat salad.

Switzerland is home to about 450 varieties of cheese. Ninety-nine percent of Swiss cheese comes from cows milk with the remainder made up of sheep and goat milk. This is considerably different from France, where goat milk cheese is very popular.

Here are some of the popular Swiss cheeses from extra hard to soft: Sbrinz; Emmentaler; Gruyere/Greyerzer; Berner Alpkaese; Schabziger; Appenzeller; Bundner Bergkaese; Mutschli; Raclette; Tere de Moine; Vacherin Fribourgeois; Tilsiter; Vacherin Mont d’Or; Formaggini; and Gala.

Two great warm-cheese dishes, usually served right about now during the cold winter months. Fondue is cheese melted in a wine-kirsch mixture, into which you dip chunks of bread. (I’ve never encountered other dipping stuff here like apples and so on.) And there is raclette, a big chunk of cheese held close to the fire until it starts to melt, and then the melting cheese is scooped off with a knife onto a plate, and eaten with bread, boiled potatoes, cornichon pickles, and sometimes some dried beef.Swiss milk is also unique. People new to Switzerland would describe it as richer tasting, more creamy with a hint of countryside meadow in its aroma. Some need to get accustomed to the vollmilch (whole fat milk), and I’ve heard that they cut it in half with low-fat milk.

Toulouse's cafe creme

Think of all the things you drink and eat that use milk. Now you know what I’m getting at. And then there’s café crème. My pure enjoyment of this simple beverage was surely a function of both the Swiss fresh water, fresh air, fresh mountain crème and excellent espresso coffee. Not to mention the awesome setting and view.

My take home message here is this: when you go to Switzerland, keep your diet at home and savor the exquisite palate-thrilling tastes that the Swiss Cow offers, in all aspects of your fine dining experience, from elegant creamy morel sauce over rahmschnitzel to a simple café crème.

I’ll be back to see my friends!