Getting Salty in Point Roberts

Point Roberts

I managed to make it out to Canada’s west coast the same time good friend and writer Nina was visiting with her friend Anne in Ladner. I joined them and we weren’t there long when Margaret, another old friend and voyageur, called us to adventure.

Did we want to cross the border? she asked.

Nina and I shared a knowing glance. Was Margaret referring to that intellectual hinterland that declared an environmental blitzkrieg? Nina asked. She is an ecologist and strong proponent of the environment. Nina also writes eco-fiction and climate fiction. The current rapacious U.S. administration's disrespectful and ill-treatment of the environment has driven her out of principle to boycott that country.

"No," Margaret answered. "Point Roberts."

We exchanged another look; cute off from the rest of the United States, Point Roberts was practically Canadian, given that it was an isolated peninsula off Canada and once even considered seceding from the U.S. to join Canada. Wikipedia describes it as a "pend exclave" of United States, located on the southernmost tip of the Twawwassen Peninsula, south of Vancouver, B.C. 

Seabright Farm Stairs to the ocean

Point Roberts gets its name from Captain Vancouver, who named it after his friend Henry Roberts. It was officially declared part of the United States in 1849, when the Oregon Treaty extended the 49th parallel as the boundary between the U.S. and British territory (which Canada was at the time) from the Rocky Mountains to Georgia Strait.

After thinking it over, we replied, "Sure!" We were eager for adventure, after all. Something that might get our feet wet or us lost then found. Something big ... or small. Something outside then inside...

Boundary Bay community

So, we went on walkabout ... well, drive-about, to be precise. We drove into that sleepy American community of 1300 or so people, looking to discover something or someplace.

After an uneventful border crossing, we drove along Boundary Bay Road through a sleepy community of cottages that faced the bay. From there we drove to Lighthouse Marine Park for a walk along the ocean shore, where we picked up whelks strewn on the pebble beach and watched a purse seining boat put out its net. The day was sunny  but not overly hot. A cool sea breeze brought the smell of brine and seaweed. 

Tamra Hansen, owner and chef

I was soon peckish from the sun and sea air. We retraced out steps to a charming cafe with outdoor patio for lunch and settled on the back patio. Saltwater Cafe has been around for a while; long enough to have plenty of character both inside and outside. The current owner has been there over 17 years. 

We decided on two platters to share: the Wedge and the Charcuterie Plate. Both were exquisitely presented and thoroughly enjoyed over Moscow Mules (Vodka, spicy ginger beer and lime juice) and lively discussion that excluded politics.

Owner and chef Tamra Hansen--also a Canadian--uses local ingredients for the rotating menu based on what's in season. We know, because when Nina entered to get two coffees, we overheard Tamra instructing on of the servers to being in some lavender from their garden (for the Lavender Mojito--one of their signature drinks). That's fresh!

The Saltwater website tells it this way:

Charcuterie Plate

"Located on Gulf Road, in Point Roberts, Saltwater Cafe is the establishment we've longed to create. After starting and operating a large number of successful restaurants both locally and nationally, we decided to settle back in Point Roberts and open something close to our hearts.

"Out menu is inspired by authentic cooking and the diverse flavours of the Pacific Northwest, made utilizing local ingredients gathered by Chef and owner, Tamra Hansen. We have a huge range of rotating specials depending on the season, featuring BBQ, wood fired pizzas, sandwiches and more! In addition to our specials we have tons of delicious cakes, muffins and pastries. Find them all lined up on the bar as you walk in. We also have a 'pick your own' sweet counter, great for kids and big kids alike."

Here's what Nina, Margaret and I had from the menu that day:

Moscow Mule

Moscow Mules: vodka, spicy ginger beer, fresh squeezed lime juice and mulled lime.

Charcuterie Plate: assorted gourmet cheeses and meats, served with nuts, fresh figs and other seasonal fruit with a side of freshly baked bread.

The Wedge: iceberg lettuce wedge, crispy apple with bacon, grape tomatoes, blue cheese crumbles, garlic vinaigrette, blue cheese drizzle and asiago cheese.

part of Saltwater Cafe garden

Cafe is Open:
Tuesday-Sunday, 8pm-4 pm
Monday closed

Contact: 

1345 Gulf Road,
Point Roberts, WA 98281
T: 360-945-7258 (SALT)
E: info@thesaltwatercafe.com

Zaza Espresso Bar & the Best Cannoli in Hillcrest Village

lunch at Zaza

I was recently passing through Toronto on my way to Vancouver and found myself at writer-friend Nina Munteanu’s current house-gig (she is an insufferable gypsy) in the heart of Hillcrest Village—not far from the University of Toronto, where she is currently teaching.

She was so happy to see me. “I’ve got a nice surprise for you,” she offered. “Well, it won’t be a surprise for long, because I’m going to tell you about it.”

I nodded. She never could keep a surprise to herself for long. This one took all of thirty seconds.

“Listen to this,” Nina said, picking up a postcard with that rather infamous eager smile of hers. I glimpsed a picture of an espresso and cannoli—very promising indeed! “Zaza Espresso Bar,” she read to me, “is a place where you can enjoy the warmth, energy & passion of a typical Italian espresso bar in your own neighbourhood!” She winked at me. “I thought of you right away. And now, here you are!”

I’ve always had impeccable timing. I’m Toulouse, the Cool Travel Cat, after all.

People underestimate a stuffed cat. They think we exist outside the parameters of time. In a way, they’re right and that’s why our little stuffed insides and outer shells tap very nicely into the quantum energy entangled in the network of all that was, is, and will be. :-3

 

Lilacs blooming in Hillcrest Village

It was Victoria Day in Canada—the queen’s birthday—and everyone was enjoying the warm sunshine and pleasant breeze outside. We walked through a lovely residential area, along Davenport Road, through Hillcrest Park then up a gently rising slope, along Turner Avenue, past stately brick and stone homes covered in ivy,  then up Arlington Avenue to the top of the hill at St Clair Avenue. The walk had taken us past small yards and gardens, some rioting with colour, others more sedate and subdued by order. All presented a mosaic of beauty and a celebration of Nature. We passed several lilac shrubs in full bloom. My nose twitched with glee at the delicate scent that wafted into my very being. Robins, sparrows and wrens chirped in a kind of chaotic harmony. 

Zaza patio

Then, like a sudden wind, we were there. Zaza! On our approach to St. Clair, we passed a wooden fence and beyond it a flower-festooned patio greeted us. Zaza occupies a red brick building on the corner of Arlington and St. Clair. Fine Italian music flowed out from inside.  I smiled. This is what Toronto is famous for: the surprising little gems nested in the heart of a community with the promise of genuine Europe. In this case, Italy.

Their promotional material describes Zaza as providing “the highest quality & decadent products in a comfortable, warm & inviting space with attentive, accommodating & welcoming staff.” It was as if they had little moi in mind! Anyone who has the courage to juxtapose the promise of highest quality with decadence earns my respect—if they can pull it off. And Zaza does. 

Owner Tina and staffer Bojana

Tina, the current owner has made this franchise her own with friendly competent staff and original interior design. Zaza beans, she told me, are roasted in Italy with a company that has more than 40 years of experience. Good beans make good coffee, she added, but to make great coffee it takes passion, patience and experience. Amen!

A well-stocked display of excellent gelato ice cream beckoned as we entered. Bojana told me that it comes from Woodbridge, where Italians make all things wonderful.  Over 30 enticing flavours included ciliegia (cherry), fragola (strawberry), mojito, cioccolato, nocciola (hazelnut), nutella, and tiramisu—Ooh! La! La!

Bojana adds the filling in my cannoli

We ordered two espressos and croissants (cornetti) with prosciutto, cheese and arugula.  After eyeing the ice cream, my sights landed firmly on the cannoli and I knew I would save some room.  Cannoli, which means “little tube”, is an Italian pastry dessert that originates from Sicily.  Filling is piped fresh into the sugar-dusted shells for that perfect contrast of creaminess and crispness. Fillings are traditionally made with ricotta but can also be custard or mascarpone.  

We sat outside in the shade of an umbrella in the patio that faced Arlington and watched the pedestrians come and go with flowers or daily supplies from the grocery store across the street. Old men in hats had a friendly argument on the street corner. Bicycles led by running dogs sped by. A large man ambled by with a black chiwawa. Streetcars clanged along St. Clair. 

Nina did some crazy dance moves in her chair to the upbeat Italian music.

When we finished our croissants, our eyes met conspiratorially. The cannoli.

Bojana dusts my cannoli

Chairs slid back and bodies moved forward and we made our way back indoors. After making me a fresh cannoli, Bojana shared that their filling is made with ricotta cheese, lemon, sugar and chocolate chips … and magic—perhaps it’s love. Because one bite into the pastry and cheese filling and I was embraced with that kind of euphoria that makes you silly.

Cannoli is a staple pastry in the best Italian bakeries in Toronto. If you live in or are visiting Toronto, like me, and are looking for a classier tour destination than all the Tim Hortons, here is a list of some of the best Italian bakeries in the GTA that feature cannoli: Rustic Bakery; North Pole Bakery; Francesca Italian Bakery; Bar Buca, Messina Bakery; Tre Mari Bakery; Riviera Bakery; Nino D’Aversa; and LaManna’s Bakery.

Toulouse shares cannoli with his friend Mouse

Well sated on excellent espresso and cannoli, we were about to leave when Nina suggested that we get more cannoli to share with my good travel friend, Mouse. I happily obliged. And Mouse was very happy I did. What are good friends for?

Information on Zaza Espresso Bar

“Poutine is one of Canada’s Blessings!”

Ayman with his poutine treasure, UofT

That’s what Ayman, a PhD grad student in metallurgy at the University of Toronto (UofT) shared with me as we huddled in the chilling cold at one of the many roadside food wagons along St. George Street. Clutching his prize—a large container of steaming poutine—Ayman confided that he had first discovered poutine about 6 years ago when he came to Canada from his homeland of Egypt to study engineering at UofT.

I was on campus, located in downtown Toronto, visiting my writing friend Nina Munteanu, who also teaches at UofT. “Come visit me and we’ll have lunch!” she’d blithely said to me and then proceeded to get caught up in meetings with students as I scampered around campus in the chilling minus 20 degree cold. That’s when I spotted one of the many food wagons that line St. George Street with steaming aromatic foods of exotic nature—from BBC pork and vegetable on rice to Halal to hot dogs and … well … poutine…

Poutine—made with French fries and cheese curds topped with a light brown gravy—originated in Quebec. It’s sold across Canada in small “greasy spoon” type diners (casse-croûtes in Quebec), pubs, and roadside chip wagons (cabanes à patates) and is popular in hockey arenas. The dish supposedly originated in the rural Eastern townships of Quebec in the 1950s—where and when I was born. Which may explain my affinity for it.

Poutine classique of la Banquise, Montreal

The most widespread story is that poutine originates from a restaurant formerly called Le Lutin qui rit in Warwick, in the Arthabaska region. In 1957, a trucker named Eddy Lainesse asked the owner Fernand Lachance to mix some cheese curds in with his fries. A Drummondville restaurant called Le Roy Jucep registered a trademark stating that it is the inventor of poutine. Jean-Paul Roy, owner of this restaurant in 1964, is the first one to have served poutine as we know it today, i.e. "French fries, cheese and gravy." Poutine could also come from the region of Nicolet, in Centre-du-Québec or from Saint-Hyacinthe in Montérégie. The high number of cheese dairies producing cheddar cheese curds in these two regions could explain the phenomenon.

Poutine Parisienne

Outside of Canada, poutine is still considered exotic, where it has appeared on menus in Europe and Asia. In Paris, where I’m originally from, poutine is served in two Canadian pubs, the “Moose Head” and “The Great Canadian”. In New York and New Jersey it’s served as a late-night side dish at clubs and called disco fries. 

The Dictionnaire historique cites the Provençal forms poutingo "bad stew" and poutité "hodgepodge" or "crushed fruit or foods"; poutringo "mixture of various things" in Languedocien; and poutringue, potringa "bad stew" in Franche-Comté as possibly related to poutine. According to Merriam-Webster, a popular etymology is that poutine is from a Quebecois slang word meaning "mess”.

Poutine contains a lot of calories and cholesterol. So, it's not exactly healthy. For instance, an average male would have to jog 2.5 hours to burn off the 1,500 calories in the country-style poutine (bacon, chicken, gravy, fries, onions and mushrooms) available at Smoke's Poutinerie. It's salty. It has fat. It's "junk" food. Having said that, it is made up of potatoes and fresh cheese.

Ultimately, it comes down to moderation.

When you’re briskly scampering from one end of campus to the other on a winter day as the wind chill blows the temperature to 30 below zero and chafes your little furry cheeks bright red, a steaming dish of poutine looks and tastes like ambrosia! And, as Ayman said, a blessing!

En vous souhaitant le meilleur cette saison! Je suis Toulouse, le COOL Chat voyage!