“Poutine is one of Canada’s Blessings!”

Ayman with his poutine treasure, UofT

That’s what Ayman, a PhD grad student in metallurgy at the University of Toronto (UofT) shared with me as we huddled in the chilling cold at one of the many roadside food wagons along St. George Street. Clutching his prize—a large container of steaming poutine—Ayman confided that he had first discovered poutine about 6 years ago when he came to Canada from his homeland of Egypt to study engineering at UofT.

I was on campus, located in downtown Toronto, visiting my writing friend Nina Munteanu, who also teaches at UofT. “Come visit me and we’ll have lunch!” she’d blithely said to me and then proceeded to get caught up in meetings with students as I scampered around campus in the chilling minus 20 degree cold. That’s when I spotted one of the many food wagons that line St. George Street with steaming aromatic foods of exotic nature—from BBC pork and vegetable on rice to Halal to hot dogs and … well … poutine…

Poutine—made with French fries and cheese curds topped with a light brown gravy—originated in Quebec. It’s sold across Canada in small “greasy spoon” type diners (casse-croûtes in Quebec), pubs, and roadside chip wagons (cabanes à patates) and is popular in hockey arenas. The dish supposedly originated in the rural Eastern townships of Quebec in the 1950s—where and when I was born. Which may explain my affinity for it.

Poutine classique of la Banquise, Montreal

The most widespread story is that poutine originates from a restaurant formerly called Le Lutin qui rit in Warwick, in the Arthabaska region. In 1957, a trucker named Eddy Lainesse asked the owner Fernand Lachance to mix some cheese curds in with his fries. A Drummondville restaurant called Le Roy Jucep registered a trademark stating that it is the inventor of poutine. Jean-Paul Roy, owner of this restaurant in 1964, is the first one to have served poutine as we know it today, i.e. "French fries, cheese and gravy." Poutine could also come from the region of Nicolet, in Centre-du-Québec or from Saint-Hyacinthe in Montérégie. The high number of cheese dairies producing cheddar cheese curds in these two regions could explain the phenomenon.

Poutine Parisienne

Outside of Canada, poutine is still considered exotic, where it has appeared on menus in Europe and Asia. In Paris, where I’m originally from, poutine is served in two Canadian pubs, the “Moose Head” and “The Great Canadian”. In New York and New Jersey it’s served as a late-night side dish at clubs and called disco fries. 

The Dictionnaire historique cites the Provençal forms poutingo "bad stew" and poutité "hodgepodge" or "crushed fruit or foods"; poutringo "mixture of various things" in Languedocien; and poutringue, potringa "bad stew" in Franche-Comté as possibly related to poutine. According to Merriam-Webster, a popular etymology is that poutine is from a Quebecois slang word meaning "mess”.

Poutine contains a lot of calories and cholesterol. So, it's not exactly healthy. For instance, an average male would have to jog 2.5 hours to burn off the 1,500 calories in the country-style poutine (bacon, chicken, gravy, fries, onions and mushrooms) available at Smoke's Poutinerie. It's salty. It has fat. It's "junk" food. Having said that, it is made up of potatoes and fresh cheese.

Ultimately, it comes down to moderation.

When you’re briskly scampering from one end of campus to the other on a winter day as the wind chill blows the temperature to 30 below zero and chafes your little furry cheeks bright red, a steaming dish of poutine looks and tastes like ambrosia! And, as Ayman said, a blessing!

En vous souhaitant le meilleur cette saison! Je suis Toulouse, le COOL Chat voyage!

Adventures in Toronto: Brunch at Whitlocks in The Beaches

Whitlocks Sunday Brunch

It was a splendid September late Sunday morning and I felt rather peckish for a fine brunch. Winking at me rather roguishly, Nina said, “I know just the place, Toulouse! Besides, ‘Life’s the Beaches’.”

“You mean ‘Life’s a Beach’,” I corrected her, stressing the singular.

“No, I mean THE BEACHES,” she returned—rather forcefully, I thought. “Come on, you’ll see,” she added and grabbed the ignition crystal to my ToulouseMobile. She dropped it in my paw. “Let’s go!”

I guess she was feeling peckish too. I grabbed my beret and sunglasses.

Never argue with a hungry woman.

Serving Sunday Brunch at Whitlocks

The drive down Toronto’s Queen Street is itself a sight-seeing trip. This commercial street runs east-west through many ethnic neighbourhoods, reflecting international influences of funk and glam with old and new architecture and original niche-style shops and cafes. We headed east on Queen through Leslieville then eventually into ‘The Beaches’. Where I had a little epiphany. Ah…. THE BEACHES… meow…

The Beaches is, in fact, a bohemian-style neighbourhood in Toronto’s East end. Dominated by tree-lined streets and turn of the Century Victorian/Edwardian houses turned into cafes and shops, The Beaches is a popular destination for locals and tourists like me. It gets its name from the expansive sandy beaches that line Lake Ontario just south of Queen Street.

Nina directed us to Whitlocks Restaurant on the south side of the street, just across from a very inviting pub-style bistro called Lion on the Beach (I took note for another time).

Patio of Whitlocks

Whitlocks invited with its side patio dining and original historical turn of the century storefront. Wood-framed windows opened up Italian-style to the breeze, providing indoor-eating with an intimate link to the outdoors. One set of windows had been converted into a buffet-style serving area for an elaborate brunch. Two chefs prepared savory custom omelets to a bevy of customers milling on the street and holding out their plates in anticipation.

We entered and seated ourselves in the outdoor patio beneath the blue and white awning, where Jose our friendly and attentive waiter took our order. He directed us through the restaurant to where the buffet spread out all the way to the front. There, we stepped back onto the street to order our custom omelets from Kunam and Suthan through the window. Kunam was pretty handy with the pan as he flipped his freshly made omelet into the air for a customer with the panache of a seasoned chef (I think he was showing off in front of us)…

Kunam and Suthan serving hot Brunch

Whitlocks serves its Sunday Harvest Brunch Buffet between 9 and 3 pm. For $20 you get all you can eat (kids half price), which includes a rich variety of delicious savories, meats, egg dishes and sweets that vary from week to week. Today Whitlocks offered: shepherd’s pie, eggs Benedict and eggs Florentine, custom omelet, roast beef, mussels, mixed vegetable rice, sausage, pancakes, tasty home fries, and renowned waffles, complete with fruit sauces and real whipped cream. And that was just the beginning! They also served Greek salad, chick pea salad, potato salad, coleslaw, fresh fruit, aromatic fresh-baked brownies, banana bread, and oh-so-exquisite tiramisu. Juice and coffee were included.  The food was tastefully cooked to perfection. And it filled my little belly to perfection too!

Kunum showing us the art of omelet-flipping

Sitting in the patio, I leaned back and drank the richly brewed coffee over my Tiramisu and watched the trees rustle in the invigorating wind. Within a few minutes, it began to rain. A typical Toronto thunderstorm was brewing. The rain swiftly turned into a deluge and pelted down hard, pounding the awning and umbrellas like a drum roll. The wind gusted and the rain decided to fall sideways, soaking patrons who laughed gleefully—we were in The Beaches, after all! Jose ushered us inside out of the misbehaving rain. Nina giggled and pointed to one young couple, who were crawling inside through the open window, plates of food precariously balanced in their outstretched hands.

We rescued our desserts and settled inside with a view of the refreshing downpour, and glad to be dry. The wood and brick walls and funky 1960’s lamps of Whitlock’s high ceilings provides a relaxed and cozy atmosphere inviting friendly chats over coffee or a main meal.

Whitlocks interior

The building remains close to its original form when Philip Whitelocks, a clergyman from England, constructed it in 1891. The clergyman ran a grocery store and post office in the front and a Baptist church in the back. In 1925 it became the first Black Diamond Cheese Factory. Then in 1985 it grew a “Famous Nose” and ten years later it drew the attention of Dimitri Panayiotou, son of master chef Yianni, of the late King Farouk. The current owner, Radha from Sri Lanka, is also Whitlock’s main chef (“The Peoples Chef”), cooking up a storm of wonderful international dishes to an equally international clientele. During the short time that I was there, I recognized French, German and Italian, among more exotic languages spoken among the patrons. Whitlock’s serves quality food and drink with an international menu of soups, appetizers and main dishes, complete with friendly service and a relaxed cosmopolitan atmosphere, conducive to lingering.

I was reminded of Ramsis Café on the World in Louisville, KY, another bistro-style restaurant that showcases international cuisine of impeccable quality.

Whitlocks: go for the brunch; linger for the dinner.

Contact: 1961 Queen Street East, The Beaches (Toronto); 647-260-0604

Historic Distillery District

Toulouse enjoys his Mill St Coffee Porter

“The pleasant aroma of baked food seemed to permeate my soul.”—InOntario

I wasn’t long in Toronto, when Nina—who understood my penchant for fine dining, great coffee and culture in unusual settings—took me to the historic Distillery District.

Set on 13 acres in the heart of downtown Toronto, The Distillery District is the single largest collection of Victorian Industrial architecture in North America and one of Toronto’s hottest “gastrozones”. I was in COOL Travel Cat Heaven. Wonderfully restored to retain its funky retro-industrial setting, The Distillery features a wide and eclectic tapestry of shops, cafés, restaurants and galleries including: chocolatiers who produce artisan chocolate directly from the cocoa bean itself; cafés that micro-roast Fairtrade beans; Canadian fine cuisine in industrial chic settings; and galleries and shops that embrace original funk-chic.

Founded in 1832 by brothers-in-law William Gooderham and James Worts, the Gooderham and

Historic Distillery District

Worts Distillery grew into the largest distillery in the world. They exported spirits and whiskey to ports around the world from New York to Rio de Janeiro and Montevideo. After 153 years of continuous production, the plant distilled its last drop of rum in 1990. Resident beer gardens, wine bars, an award-winning microbrewery (Mill Street Brewery) and even a sake distillery (which opened a few months ago) have amply filled the gap. The Ontario Spring Water Sake Company is the first and only sake brewery in Ontario. It’s prepared in the “Junmai” (pure rice) style, freshly pressed, unpasteurized and unfiltered. They have a lovely tasting room and several sakes to try along with Japanese food.

The Potter's Shed

The Distillery was restored and developed into a pedestrian-only cultural “Victorian Industrial chic village”, opening in May 2003 as Toronto’s new centre for Art, Culture and Entertainment. Pigcat and I strolled along the brick lined promenades and European piazza-style squares in what the Globe and Mail calls “a picture postcard draw”. Where ever I turned, a paradox of hip sophistication and retro-industrial funk greeted me. I was reminded a little of Soho in New York as my senses feasted on a range of motion, color, texture and fragrance: an old roadster parked in an alley overlooking the industrial punk sculpture of Dennis Oppenheim;  a collection of clay pots, dried lavender and ferns adding colorful texture to a red brick road.   As we strolled past eclectic shops and avant-garde galleries—once a distillery complex, flour mills and cooper shop—I inhaled the pleasant aroma of baked food and freshly roasted coffee. The Distillery, like a fine distilled spirit, is a feast of the senses. If Hemmingway was a Torontonian, he might have reserved his famous quote for this place.

Fleur de Sel chocolate caramel

Nina took me to Soma, where we savored a provocatively delicious Mayan hot chocolate over a Sparky chocolate (named after my good friend, Sparky, no doubt! LOL!)—a dark chocolate “half-moon” covering a “genache” of gianduja laced with paprocks. Eugenia served us our Mayan hot chocolate, made with ginger, Madagascar vanilla, orange peel, and their secret blend of spices. HA! I know that chili is one of them. The hot chocolate ran smooth over my tongue, rich with chocolate and a touch of heat.

Soma is one of the few artisan chocolatiers in North America who make small batch chocolates Veni, vidi, vici!

Patrons of Soma enjoy exquisite gelato

directly from the cocoa bean (which they get from plantations around the world including the Dominican Republic, Madagascar, Costa Rica and Panama—with a preference for Fairtrade, Organic and flavor grade. You can see them making their chocolates in their micro-chocolate factory through the display window! Toronto Life Magazine and Now Magazine voted Soma chocolates as the best in town. And why not? Their exquisite chocolates are lovingly made by dedicated and friendly staff (probably intoxicated with chocolate-induced endorphins). You can’t go wrong with names and elegant ingredients like fleur de sel caramels, almond cluster dark Peruvian, Arbequina Spanish olive oil, cherry bomb, Gooderham and Worts Whiskey, Douglas Fir and Bergamot.

Soma’s gelatos and sorbettos are also extremely popular. We returned later to savor one of their 14 flavours.

Mill Street Brewery Pub

We stopped for lunch at the Mill Street Brew Pub, a place to eat with character and its own micro-brewery. Mill Street Brewery is East Toronto’s first commercial brewery to open in more than 100 years, home to Ontario’s first certified organic lager, producing handcrafted beers and ales in historic Corktown area of the city. The pub was built around their open-concept brewery beneath 18 foot ceilings and huge skylights, successfully preserving the character and ambience of the century-old distillery district.

We sat in their patio facing Tank House Lane. Nina decided on their English Tea Beer and I asked Natalie, our friendly waitress, for their Coffee Porter. The Coffee Porter features roasted beans from Balzac Coffee, down the street, and delights the palate with complex lingering flavors of nuts. With 100% certified ingredients in their stock ales, tank house ales, and porters, who can go wrong?

The Brew Pub opened in 2006, serving exceptional pub-style food that use the Mill Street brews, brewed on site. I ordered a Drunken Butter Chicken (the name somehow appealed)—an organic lager marinated chicken simmered in the Mill’s own butter sauce and served with basmati rice and naan bread. I found large chicken pieces bathed in a delicate “rose” sauce with complex flavors that lingered with a mild heat.  Along with their cob salad, which Nina smartly chose, and their signature fish and chips, it is a favorite among Brew Pub patrons.

The Potter's Shed

   

Then it was time to exercise some of that butter chicken away. A little ways down Tank House Lane we felt drawn to the magic realism of The Potter’s Shed, whose earthy artworks looked like they’d spilled out from the tiny shop in artful chaos among the brick pavestones. Clay pots and gardening implements lay scattered among dizzying sprays of lavender, hydrangeas, and ferns.  Inside, Behar, in her rainbow sarong, added to a setting out of a classic fiction novel. When we finally stepped back into the sun, Pigcat asked me if I’d seen all the ferries sitting among the pots.

We ambled farther, poking inside eclectic shops, and ended up on Trinity Street. I highly recommend Cube Works Gallery, a fun shop that features original works created from Rubik’s cubes.

Balzac's Coffee

We followed our discerning noses to Balzac’s Coffee, the very establishment whose roasted beans provided the basis for my Coffee Porter at the Mill Street Brew Pub. The inside looked like the set of an old Bogart movie, with tall mirror, high ceiling, chandelier, staircases that lead nowhere and—what convinced me that this was a serious coffee establishment—an original nickel Elektra espresso maker, complete with soaring eagle. Although it was no longer used for espresso-making, according to the barista (they only used it now for frothing milk), its presence on the counter signified serious coffee intent. I wasn’t surprised when my single-shot espresso tasted exquisite, with a deep coffee nose and an attractive natural crema. We sat outside the coffee shop in the square that featured a kind of space-retro-industrial punk sculpture by Dennis Oppenheim. Called “Still Dancing” Oppenheim described it as “a combination of sculpture, architecture and theatre.”

We took Case Goods Lane, past several galleries, toward PureSpirits Oyster House & Grill and Toronto Life—for an exquisite dinner of fresh oysters and salad. Ben, out waiter—who recognized me, because he is from Toulouse, France!—offered us Fanny Bay oysters from British Columbia and Beausoleils from New Brunswick. They came on the half-shell with shredded horseradish and several shallot vinaigrettes. I showed Nina how to throw the oyster to the back of the throat and savor the full flavor of the creamy-sweet, sea-salt meat. Pure Spirit oysters are considered “the best” in Toronto by OurFaves.com. We slurped them down with panache, licking our little pink tongues, along with a refreshing baby spinach and arugula salad.

Oyster shucking contest

decided to have an early supper of fresh oysters and beer. Ah, the life of a Cool Cat… We settled on the outside patio—called “Toronto’s Best Patio” by

It was the last Tuesday in May and Pure Spirits was launching its “Topshuck Patio” shucking contest at 6pm. Of course, we stayed and watched them shuck their little hearts out—well, actually their little oysters out …hehe… It turned out that all of Toronto’s best had come to compete for money and a huge bottle of Sky vodka. Contestants from Rodney’s Oyster House, Oyster Boy and Big Daddy’s, and Starfish (to name a few quality establishments) shucked as we gorged on oysters (Pure Spirits donated the shucked oysters to its patrons. Bonus!). Head chef Tim Miles put on the shindig. Contestants were timed on their ability to successfully shuck a dozen oysters. The fastest shuck against the least demerit points for quality won. Tim and his assistant Carlier Morejon (the “Cuban Missile”) judged each shuck. They added to the time if: the oyster wasn’t severed, the gut was still in the oyster, the shell was broken, the meat was out of shell, it was a bad oyster, it was scrambled, the count was wrong, and on number of parts. We didn’t leave until very late that night and we had actually had our fill of oysters. We felt a little like the “Walrus and the Carpenter” as we ambled home, bellies full and happy.

Judging the shucking

With more patio space than any other Toronto location, The Distillery is a favorite hangout among thirsty locals in search of a little bit of European flair. I was told that The Distillery District is destined to become the epicenter of the largest waterfront redevelopment in North America. The Pan Am Games athletes village is currently being constructed just east of the Distillery with accommodation for 6,000 athletes. Right after the games in 2015 they will be transformed into residential units along with others in the West Don Lands. Old Corktown and The Old City environs between St. Laurence Market and The Distillery are being revitalized in the old heritage vision that has made The Distillery District so chic. 

World-class theatre and entertainment thrive in X-Men, Chicago, Long Kiss Goodnight, The Recruit and Cinderella Man.

Filming in the Distillery District

The Distillery District. I noted that several theatre companies have made The Distillery their home, including The Soulpepper Theatre Company and George Brown’s Theatre School, housed in the Young Centre for the Performing Arts. The Toronto Star calls it “Toronto’s new cultural hotspot.” Nina informed me that over 1000 movies, television shows, commercials and music videos were shot in The Distillery District; some include

The Distillery Historic District, 55 Mill Street, Toronto, ON, Canada; 416-364-1177